Transfer image to canvas

Let’s go today with a new technique. Those of you become accustomed to serach  this kind of stuff online aybe you have already seen, it seems to have become populae lately, so I will not be the first nor the last to explain how, but here I tell you our experience .

In this case we will transfer a photo to a canvas. Some might say that why, if it’s easier (and let’s be honest, is better) send it to any photo shop (almost all of them do it), but it’s about exploring the possibilities. Now is canvas, but it could have been any material. Wood for example I have in mind the picture of leap of faith (for fans of Indiana Jones), but it could be anything. And playing with texture and brushstrokes can give different effects. This, as I say, has been a first contact.

Let’s start with the materials:

– Brush, or whatever we want to use to spread the gel.

– Gel Medium. It’s an acrylic substance whose function is to enhance the technical capacity of acrylic paints, but in this case it  “catchs the toner image” to be attached to the stand you choose. It can be purchased at craft stores or fine arts. They are different types, matt, gloss, etc, in my case the one I found was sold specifically for image transfer.

-The  photo you want, laser printed but inverted (now you will see why). And on paper as thin as possible.

– Water.

– Varnish.

– Patience.

Impregnate the image with gel. In my case I gave three passes on the recommendation of the instructions, (I fear that what they want with those instructions is to use more than the necessary amount) waiting for it to dry between each one.

At this point we must keep in mind that the last of the brush will be felt on the bottom so unless you want that effect, you have to be careful not to give wildly past.

In this case gave the strokes horizontally. Care must be taken to cover with a generous layer the complete surface, since at points where is not any gel, we’ll lose that piece of the final image. We can also play with this, as with the order of the strokes when we want to get different results.

 

As soon as we finish the last coat and before it dries (it dries very quickly, at least the one I have). We place the image face down on the cnvas, hence the need to print in mirror, since the final reproduction will be reversed.

We extend the paper so that there are no wrinkles or bubbles. You see that there have been some bubbles?we have to remove it by hand or helping us with a sponge or cloth. If not, in that area we’ll miss the photo.

Although it’s dry in a couple hours, I noticed that the longer you let it dry was better, so if there’s no rush it’s better to leave even a day.

This is where patience involved. The way to remove the paper on which we print is moistening and rubbing it with your fingers until it disappears, hence I specified that the paper should be as thin as possible, although laser prints are often made as minimum of 80gr paper and in much of the copy shops (if you have no home laser printer) they use 100gr paper.

I think you could easily make it  printing on transparency, since the image will remain in the medium and the acetate will peel off, but I can’t assure you, because I have not tried.

At this point I have to point out how cute this girl was dressed as a bride …

 

When the paper is wet it’s hard to know if everything is peeled, so despite you  having been a long time scratching, once dried we can find a “veil” of paper still attached.

It’s a matter of keep rubbing and wetting, it ends up taking off, but be careful not to take the falso the gel with the image. You can see in the left and right margins of the picture some imperfections because it raised  the photo and center of the dress is a part that has not sticked well.

Of course, I could have repeated the work to do a perfect job and it will seem that the first time everything is wonderful, but no, this post is to show you the first test with this material, with its successes and failures.

 

 

Of course, when something goes wrong, try to take advantage, so to make it appear that stuck defects were purposely sanded other areas of the image.

The idea was to leave blank margins, but there were remnants of paper and had been a little dirty, so I decided to give it a bit of paint. (Though not think it was a big hit).

To protect the table we apply a satin varnish, matt or gloss, as we want, and this is the result:

I encourage you to do the test, in the material you can think of. It can be done, such as a collage, by hand, (without resorting to Photoshop), and if you have kids, they will surely entertain some fun scratching the paper until they see the photo appear as a sticker … but bigger.

The Holy Grail

“The search for it is the search for the divine in all of us.”

Marcus Brody

Walking through the world on the trail of the Holy Grail is very tired, so a few years ago I decided to make my own, of course replica of the one in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. It was, as always a way to learn with a thing that I like and enjoy. For more accurate replicas and artwork, my friends Fedora_Smith and Restaurajones do real wonders.

As for almost all the props from the movies there were several grails, and as we select different frames we will see slight differences, but in my case it was not accurate, (only a way to have fun), so I’ll  not go into these depths.

I must admit that of all life on hearing “is the cup of a carpenter”, I thought it was a wooden cup … until I realized it did not have to be this way, only concerned a humble cup.

I wanted to learn to make of plaster with a template.

Using multiple images of the movie I did a plane to cut the negatives I’d need, and since I had it  I modeled in 3D to get the idea of ​​how it would be.

The method involves adding plaster axis until it reaches the “template” that will give the shape, so the template is the negative of the piece we want to obtain.

In this case, we will make a preform for the concave (interior) portion. Round and round casting plaster slowly until we get the part. As the shape was cut by hand on a sheet of PVC, it had imperfection s, but I really like seeing those little nicks in the grail over.

On this half sphere, we are going to build the real cup, but to continue pouring plaster, as we don’t want sticking, we first fill the pores and give it some release agent. (In this case I covered the pores with diluted white glue and used wax  as mold release agent, as I had no specific products by hand,)

And round, and plaster, little by little .. we approaching the edge of the die … and finally finished cup.

Once out of the shaft and separate the inner part and the cup itself, I covered the hole left by the axis in the center with a little portion of plaster and let it dry.

I used “english red” to paint the background and gold leaf, which I will not explain how its applied (among other things because I’m far from an expert). If anyone is curious there are many websites where its explained by people with more experience than me.

And to age it … well, they may not be very orthodox methods, but I gace some layers of what was happening to me. White paint, gray paint, lacquer and talcum powder …and putting it in a bag with sand and shake it a bit.

This was the result.

I hope you enjoy it as much as us. Occasionally we have a drink on it, so we stay so young.