This time we will learn together, it is the first time I do this with proper tools.
One of our Christmas gifts was a case of gouges and a plaque of rubber to make stamps and had not time to test them yet. Instead of these plates, sold specifically for this purpose, can be used erasers.
When I was young I made many stamps with erasers, I still have one, with which I signed the letters …
These are the gouges, for sale in many arts and crafts shops.
For me, the worst of the process has been to define the image I wanted to use. If we make a freehand drawing, no more than paint (I recommend a ballpen) on the rubber, but in my case I wanted to trace an image and letters. My first choice was to print the drawing in “mirror” and try to trace it with coal paper (which was used with typewriters), but it turned out that as much as clench, the drawing dis not went beyond.
A good option would be to print the image in the right way with an ink-jet printer on glossy paper, so the ink does not dry out, and put the paper on the rubber and the picture remains printed. I chose to go over the drawing (right) repeatedly with pen and press it against the gum, going with a pen on the other side. So I got a clear enough picture to be able to redraw.
Of course, we need to have the stamp drawing in “mirror”, and we have to think first the things we will want to stay inked and which not. I opted for the white lettering and ink drawing, because leaving the raised lettering would be much more difficult.
To whom is not very familiar with the gouges, I recommend you to do some tests before starting the stamp to see what results you get with each. Generally, you use V-shaped guoges for greater accuracy, and the rest to remove excess.
I started with the letters, trying as far as possible to make continuous lines, as we do writing, and I made a frame around that marked the place that would be inked.
As for the drawing, I think it is easier if you first do the outline, also with a gouge with the tip with an acute angle and making the rest of the image we will be more comfortable with flatter gouges.
Once the outline done, we can carve all the surplus. I used primarily the point in U, because I like it, I do not know if technically there are better methods.
As we ink the stamp for the first time we will see more clearly the flaws in both areas, those that are not well defined, and others that are not deep enough. We see it because ink stains the surplus and it will be easier to see where there are still material to remove.
For regular stamping, we need the rubber stuck on a flat, hard surface. I cut a piece of wood, but surely you find anything else. (If the stamp is tiny you can stick it in a cork).
As many of you know, we have a plush pig as a pet that has been with us since the beginning of time, so it is with us even in the journey of MJ2Artesanos. And so, however imperfect, have a stamp indicating that our work is handmade.
It’s a matter of practice, we will see how the second goes out better to all of us.
Our baby is growing fast and likes to participate in what we do, so a few weeks ago I thought it was time for our first craft together: A custom colored shirt with her name on it.
For this work we only need a tee, paper and crayons.
To start we cut the picture we want to do on the shirt on a sheet of paper. In my case I did it on an adhesive paper that can be purchased at any stationery store, and would avoid the bits of wax to sneak on sites we don’t want to color.
If you use an ordinary paper, put it by carefully on the smooth fabric and see that it will not rise. To do this with children is much more practical, as I say, to stick the paper to the fabric. (the glue is not very strong, so it can then be removed without problems). And between the front and back of the shirt put a cardboard or several papers to absorb the excess of wax and protect the back of stain.
With a pencil sharpener, we make powder with the waxes we want to use. I made a pile for each color, but I knew that María was going to mix them, and effectively his “decision” was to use all the colors at once.
Split the chips on paper with the design that we like and at the end, carefully helping with a brush, withdraw all the bits that have been left out of the work area. (If there is anyone out then we will have unwanted spots).
We place a sheet of paper on the drawing being careful not to move the wax (in this case did not matter much because the colors were mixed, but if the design has a definite pattern will be damaged by moving chips with paper above).
We turn on the iron to medium heat and without steam. This way will take a little longer to melt the wax, but if you set it too hard or ironed too long, too fat spread the wax around the edges of the drawing leaving it poorly defined.
When we see how the iron melt waxes and paper absorbs excess, it is very easy to see when to stop.
Just after the upper board paper is removed and left to cool.
We can now remove the paper template and presto, we have a new shirt.
You can of course do the drawing without template, it’s all about skill. And it can also be fun that older children draw a picture with soft wax on the fabric and then secure them with the iron. I have not tried, because Maria is very tiny, but I think it would be better to use a slightly more rigid (one canvas or something) so it does not deform while painting fabric, and then sew it on a t-shirt ..
These shirts can be washed in the washing machine quietly, although it should be done with the garment inside out and in cold water.