Category Archives: Manualidades


Restoring a toy from my childhood.

Hello everyone, today I want to tell you how to restore a toy in which the passing of time, and use have left their mark.

The other day I found a toy at home that has about 30 years and it was pretty oldie. It was a plastic model of the Space Shuttle Columbia and that I liked. In addition, the Columbia is one of the two Shuttles destroyed in the history of NASA, so I was excited to restore it.

When I saw it I knew it would not be a matter of five minutes to restore it, because in addition to natural wear, it had a termination of  “plastic toy” I wanted to avoid.

Here you have some pictures to give you an idea of ​​how the unit was.

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As you see, it was quite used as I’ve played a lot with this space shuttle. Well, was not that impossible to leave it as new or as I like it to be right now.

To start, remove all detachable. The advantage of the antique toys is that they have screws and removal was the easiest thing of the restoration.

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Once disassembled and well kept all that was susceptible to loss, I started with the removal of the stickers and sanding around the toy. It  has to be sanded and cleaned with some alcohol, because acetone and solvent melted and deformed the plastic. So patience and sandpaper in hand I set to the job. I had to caulk the deepest scratches.

Once caulked and sanded I gave a microfine sandpaper pass so that it was without any imperfections and incidentally to take away the scratches that are often left with a coarse sandpaper.


Now with everything prepared, ie, sanded and clean, we give a primer to prepare it for later painting and to show any imperfections that we have skipped the first time.


After giving primer to all parts, I returned to the microfine sanding to leave it completely smooth, without roughness andprepared to paint.

I picked car paint we bought in a retail store, it covers a lot and goes very well for the airbrush.

First the white paint as it was almost entirely white (and it is always best to start with light colors), once well covered after two hands with the airbrush (and letting the paint dry), I began masking to paint all black areas.

After confirming that the black has also been well (two hands again), and touched up a few details, and only had to put the decals instead of stickers (the toy was made with stickers). I find decals more authentic as they are thinner and more imperceptible than the stickers.

I used transparent decals of “Testors”, that I still have from when I worked with model trains. The are printed with ink-jet and cut to length, but I used the vinyl cutter and its possibilities, because it would always be better than doing it by hand.

Already printed and cut, I varnished them to settle and adhere the ink to the decal.

The paint scheme and decals, I painted as I wanted to, as there are several different schemes and also the model does not exactly match with the reality. Furthermore, as the toy is mine, what better than having it to my taste, right? And here you have the result of the operation of restoring my Shuttle Columbia nearly 30 years. I hope you liked it.







5 Simple toys with popsicle sticks

Today one of toys for children and adults. (Children with adult supervision, we do not want accidents).

It’s a funny little collection of artifacts that we have found in the net and made ​​in a moment, with popsicle sticks, or those that sell for crafts.
Many image and fewer words because they are self-explanatory.


                     1 Popsicle sticks bomb:




With 5 sticks intertwined the way you see in the picture, you can make a mini-bomb. It will jump into the air as you release one of the sticks or throw it into the ground. There are many ways to connect the sticks, even to make long chains. This is very simple and quick.

This link (a great blog) there are other types.

Of course, it is a matter of skill and patience, when jumping one, all the others go back.

                  2 Bow:




You will need a stick, a bit of dental floss, and something to use as arrow. We have chosen a swab ears with a cut point, because if it escapes, it will not hurt, if you use a toothpick as an arrow and a carton as a target, the stick will nail.

To do this you just have to leave the stick in water for a while to make the wood a little more flexible. If you do not moisten the stick will break when bent.

Once moistened, you have to make notches on both ends (to hold the thread) and tie a piece of dental floss keeping the curved arc with greatest tension as we can without breaking it. (Please note that with sufficient tension can go really fast and if the arrow is pointed us we can make damage).


             3 Crossbow:




This requires a bit more skill, but with a cap, a rubber band (top wide) and two sticks, we can make a small crossbow.

We need to make four holes to plug at 90 degrees from each other, to make them go through the two sticks. Note that two of them have to be above the other two for the sticks intersect but do not stumble. Over the holes that correspond to the upper stick, we will make two round holes where the arrow will be loaded.

Rubber band is placed as in the pictures, and we have a little crossbow.

We have made the holes with an awl and enlarged with a screwdriver. My advice is to use a shampoo cap, or some other pot than soda because the caps in bottles of regular soda are very hard.

In this case the recommendation to use blunt arrows is the same. You can also shoot very strong if we give great tension to the rubber.








Here you have a short video with the three running. (Everything is cooler in super slow motion, although these videos our camera is low resolution)



                      4 Leonardo’s bridge:

Some time ago we have told you about what it was, you can take a look at this link

As you see, you can also make a self-supporting bridge with these sticks, but it’s more an exercise of patience and pulse than strength of materials.



                     5. Harmonic:



As we were being too warlike thing ( Leonardo’s bridge was also designed for war ), the latter is a musical instrument.

In this case we used tongue depressors of doctors use , because they are bigger , but can be done with small ones ( it will sound different , of course).

We found the idea on this great blog which has many other great ideas.

We’ve changed a bit. As you can see in the photos, between the cross rubber band and the sticks we have gotten the same rubber bands that will then attach to the sides , one for each side of the rubber that is tight, so it is a bit of separation between the three layers and it’s easier to get sound. Also if we eave one end a little loose, we’ll get different notes while squeezing roughly blow out , and blowing more to the right or the left.



A blow and have fun playing with the sounds !

We hope these toys will give you a lot of fun. Enjoy it !

Making bracelets with cellulose acetate.

Today I’ll show you how to make a bracelet (or any other accessories) with cellulose acetate as well, I’ll say you a couple of things you should avoid.

Cellulose acetate has many applications, such as the photographic negative for movies.

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(Image from

In our case it is a great substitute for the shells with which before were made bracelets and combs (the turtles are not guilty of fashion trends), we can find multiple colors, and thicknesses. In addition to solid colors, imitation is found in tortoiseshell shell, bull horn … Bought as almost all these things in specialty craft stores.

In particular, bracelets you see today are ivory white, 2 mm thick.

The first thing to do is draw the shape you want to use, I am drawing on the computer because I’m not good at hand drawing and I also avoid the greater part because these pieces are usually symmetrical and have many repetitions.

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The basic material we need is the following:

– Design of the piece.

– Glue sticks.

– Fretsaw.

-Drill (to make holes inside).

– Basin (large enough for the part not touch the sides)

– Acetone.

Acetate can be cut with a fretsaw, which makes it a good choice for homemade crafts as we do not need very specific tools. I cut it with the jigsaw table, because I have one, but the technique is the same.

DSCF8648 (Large)To cut the pieces I recommend you to  you adhere drawing with glue stick. Sticks enough to keep it from moving, but rather little to remove it easily.





The cut is a matter of patience and a little skill. For those who do not know that I only point that for make the interior drawings must make a hole in the side of the piece you want to remove and insert the blade hair. Once assembled the saw we can continue sawing from within.

Once cut do notDSCF8654 (Large) worry if the edges are a bit rough, that will be refined later.

When we remove paper it might remain attached. It will be removed by introducing the bracelet in hot water.


DSCF8655 (Large)The only thing maybe a little complicated of the process is the time to polish it. Cellulose acetate is dissolved in acetone, so we fill with it a sufficiently large tray that our work does not rub against the edges or bottom. I manage the pieces hanging them with two wires, so that the contact surface is the smallest. If this is the first time, its better for you to try with a scrap.


Attention: acetate dissolves very quickly. The longer submerged, more rounded edges, but we got the shine on the surface will end “messing” with the dissolved material layer itself if it is too long. We may leave marks with wires. I recommend a short pass and on the move, for the acetone to flow and clean the surface. (Acetone is highly volatile and flammable. Beware.)

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As you see in the picture, I used a small tray too, among other things because at that time I did not have much acetone. That might have made ​​the bracelet stick to the bottom.

DSCF8658 (Large)As we get the acetate from the tray, we hang it somewhere that does not touch anything but the wire, being careful not to touch it with your hands, because it would leave the track.

Since I was working on it, I took the opportunity to make a matching combs.

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DSCF8660 (Large)Now that we have the flat bracelets just have to give them shape. It is best to put them in hot water for a while until they are a bit squishy and round them by hand or with something we can use for mold.

Here are two mistakes that you should not commit.


The large bracelet was too tight with rubber hair band, so in the end was deformed. If you have to use some mold to the shape of the bracelet, it is better to tighten the same way everywhere.

manitaYou see that the little one has been rather square. That’s for two reasons. One is that the diameter, it was too small because it was for a baby, and the other, more important, is the design with wider and narrower areas,it favors that double in the weakest point. When we do the drawing there are things to consider as you do not have much weaker than other areas or very acute angles that will be hard to bend with the same radius as the rest of the piece.

S/W Ver: 85.83.E1PFinally I leave the comb I did when my mother was godmother of the wedding of my older brother, and other small combs and other models. I have to say that these were laser cut, which is much faster and easier, but the theory is the same.


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I say, to encourage you to make these things, that the comb was my first job with this material, and it was not bad, so you know, start working that spring is soon here and begin the celebrations everywhere.