{"id":1777,"date":"2015-11-18T22:01:35","date_gmt":"2015-11-18T21:01:35","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.mj2artesanos.es\/blog\/?p=1777"},"modified":"2025-09-29T08:53:22","modified_gmt":"2025-09-29T07:53:22","slug":"imprimir-con-un-lapiz-3d","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mj2artesanos.es\/blog\/en\/imprimir-con-un-lapiz-3d\/","title":{"rendered":"Printing with a 3D pen"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sorry, this entry is only available in Espa\u00f1ol<\/a>.<\/p>


\n<\/a>En los \u00faltimos a\u00f1os, la impresi\u00f3n en tres dimensiones se ha popularizado entre el p\u00fablico general gracias al abaratamiento progresivo de las impresoras de filamento. (Las m\u00e1s baratas se pueden encontrar por unos 400\u20ac).<\/p>\n

En \u00e9sta l\u00ednea de tecnolog\u00eda (impresi\u00f3n por filamento ABS o PLA fundido), aparecieron los l\u00e1pices 3D. Quiz\u00e1 la marca m\u00e1s conocida, y se podr\u00eda decir que nombre gen\u00e9rico es 3Doodler, de los que podemos encontrar muchas marcas y modelos en el mercado, aproximadamente con las misma prestaciones.<\/p>\n

El nuestro es un “yaya3dpen” con filamento de 1.75mm. En su p\u00e1gina web<\/a> nos explican claramente las diferencias entre los dos tipos de pl\u00e1stico.<\/p>\n

En nuestro caso utilizamos filamento ABS.<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a>Hay que decir que \u00e9stos l\u00e1pices est\u00e1n hechos para “garabatear” (doodle). Es dif\u00edcil conseguir precisi\u00f3n con ellos, sobre todo si dibujamos “en el aire” sin un apoyo o una referencia. Por ejemplo, al tratar de hacer un \u00e1rbol, la posici\u00f3n de las ramas es incontrolable. Podemos hacer una l\u00ednea recta tirando del filamento mientras se enfr\u00eda, o podemos dejar que se “rice” con un poco de direcci\u00f3n, pero sin mucho control.<\/p>\n

As\u00ed pues esta vez me voy \u00a0centrar en dibujos hechos sobre superficies de referencia.<\/p>\n

En el primer caso se trata de un cuenco utilizando como base un taz\u00f3n de desayuno.<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

Para poder hacer un dise\u00f1o sobre una superficie, es conveniente aplicar una fina capa de pegamento de barra. Ser\u00e1 suficiente como para conseguir adherencia y que no resbale el pl\u00e1stico, \u00a0pero despu\u00e9s se despegar\u00e1 f\u00e1cilmente y los restos que puedan quedar (tanto del pegamento como de papel, si es el caso) se ir\u00e1n con agua.<\/p>\n

Tras hacer una rejilla que sirva de base con un poco de resistencia, hice un dibujo con un rotulador para tener un dise\u00f1o que seguir.<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

Como veis, a parte de la definici\u00f3n que seamos capaces de conseguir (que es b\u00e1sicamente cuesti\u00f3n de pr\u00e1ctica) el principal problema al que nos enfrentamos es la aparici\u00f3n de esos “pelillos” de pl\u00e1stico fundido cuando retiramos el l\u00e1piz de la l\u00ednea que hemos dibujado. \u00c9sta vez decid\u00ed dejarlos todos para, al final cortarlos. No lo recomiendo, ya que, aunque se trabaja m\u00e1s r\u00e1pido, porque no tienes que soltar el l\u00e1piz y coger las tijeras cada vez, al final se acaban convirtiendo en una mara\u00f1a dif\u00edcil de recortar cuando hemos acabado.<\/p>\n

\u00c9ste fue el resultado final:<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a> \"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

Como segundo ejercicio me propuse dibujar a partir de una fotograf\u00eda, d\u00e1ndole algo de relieve. Para ello hice un boceto (calcando de una fotograf\u00eda) con las l\u00edneas principales de una iglesia (la de Villavieja de Yeltes, Salamanca).<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

Una vez m\u00e1s, apliqu\u00e9 el pegamento de barra, procurando no dejar grumos y dej\u00e1ndolo un rato que se seque, para que no se quede todo el papel pegado a la pieza. Os aconsejo que utilic\u00e9is bol\u00edgrafo, rotulador o impresora de chorro de tinta. En los dibujos a l\u00e1piz, el grafito impide que pegue bien, y se nos puede resbalar el pl\u00e1stico, a\u00fan con el pegamento, y las impresiones l\u00e1ser con el calor se derriten y se desvanece el dibujo.<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a>Una vez dibujadas todas las l\u00edneas, hemos de repasar todos los “cabos sueltos” para que la estructura se sostenga cuando lo coloquemos en vertical. Lo despegamos con cuidado del papel e intentamos darle forma ayud\u00e1ndonos del calor de la punta del l\u00e1piz.<\/p>\n

Como quer\u00eda doblar las dos partes que representan dos paredes, utilic\u00e9 una caja para que bajase por su propio peso al darle calor.<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

Por \u00faltimo, como lo iba a colocar en un marco, hice unas l\u00edneas diagonales que sujetasen las dos partes dobladas en un \u00e1ngulo fijo. Tambi\u00e9n algunas “patas” dibujadas perpendicularmente (\u00e9stas al aire), que sirvieran de sujeci\u00f3n a la base a enmarcar.<\/p>\n

Lo pegu\u00e9 con cianocrilato (loctite).<\/p>\n

Utilic\u00e9 un marco con cierta profundidad, para que quedase encuadrado todo el volumen, y as\u00ed fue como qued\u00f3:<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

El cuadro gana mucho cuando en la iluminaci\u00f3n se juega con las sombras. Aqu\u00ed ten\u00e9is un ejemplo de la sensaci\u00f3n de profundidad que se produce con el cambio de iluminaci\u00f3n (Hay que hacer click en la imagen para ver el gif animado):<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

Por \u00faltimo, una sencilla mariposa, tambi\u00e9n dibujada sobre papel y despu\u00e9s montada sobre el cuerpo central.<\/p>\n

\"3doodler,<\/a> \"3doodler,<\/a> \"3doodler,<\/a><\/p>\n

Pod\u00e9is encontrar por internet muchas plantillas para hacer vuestros primeros trabajos, y m\u00e1s tarde se os ocurrir\u00e1n nuevas aplicaciones.<\/p>\n

\u00c9ste tipo de l\u00e1pices 3D se puede usar tambi\u00e9n para pegar piezas impresas con impresoras 3D, ya que muchas veces hay que hacer los dise\u00f1os en varias partes, bien por el tama\u00f1o de la m\u00e1quina o por la complejidad de las piezas.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sorry, this entry is only available in Espa\u00f1ol<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Imprimir con l\u00e1piz 3D<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1821,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_crdt_document":"","advgb_blocks_editor_width":"","advgb_blocks_columns_visual_guide":"","two_page_speed":[],"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[456,457,454,458,455,459],"class_list":["post-1777","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-manualidades","tag-3d-pen","tag-3d-printer","tag-3doodler","tag-doodler","tag-lapiz-3d","tag-yaya3dpen"],"yoast_head":"\nPrinting with a 3D pen - MJ2 Artesanos<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"En los \u00faltimos a\u00f1os, la impresi\u00f3n en tres dimensiones se ha popularizado entre el p\u00fablico general gracias al abaratamiento progresivo\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.mj2artesanos.es\/blog\/imprimir-con-un-lapiz-3d\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"[:es]Imprimir con un l\u00e1piz 3D[:en]Printing with a 3D pen[:] - 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